There’s a certain hush that comes with autumn in Sweden. The air feels different—more earthy, crisp, carrying the scent of wet leaves and woodsmoke. Mornings are suddenly sharper, evenings come quicker, and somewhere between the forest trails and the city sidewalks, you realize that comfort food is no longer just an option. It’s a need.
This is the season when layers matter most. Layers of wool scarves, layers of fog over Mälaren, layers of lasagna steaming from the oven.
Chestnuts in Sweden – and Marroni from Italy
In Stockholm, you don’t really find roasted chestnut vendors on every corner, the way you might in Milan or Florence when the leaves turn. Here, chestnuts remain a rarity, almost exotic, usually tucked away in specialty shops. But in Italy, chestnuts are more than a snack. They’re a season in themselves.
The small town of Marradi, nestled in Tuscany, holds a famous sagra (festival) dedicated to marroni—those plump, sweet chestnuts that turn every square into a living postcard of autumn. Further north, in Piedmont, the Marroni from Langhe are just as celebrated, with a slightly nutty depth and a texture perfect for both sweet and savory cooking.
Imagine pairing these with lasagna. Marroni folded into a silky filling, their natural sweetness echoing the roasted pumpkin—it’s the kind of cultural mix we love at Lasagnariet. A little taste of Italy, layered into Swedish autumn.
The Pumpkins of Autumn
Sweden grows a fair share of pumpkins, but for our seasonal lasagna we’ve chosen the Hokkaido pumpkin—a compact, fiery-orange globe with firm, sweet flesh. It’s not only delicious, but also practical: you don’t need to peel it. The skin softens as it roasts, blending seamlessly into the dish.
Compare that with the grand Chioggia pumpkin, known as “Zucca Marina di Chioggia.” This Venetian variety is knobby, green-grey, and massive—perfect for gnocchi or risotto, but often a bit too much for the average Stockholm kitchen. Then there’s the ever-reliable butternut squash. Creamy, mild, and beloved for soups, but sometimes lacking the intensity we crave in lasagna.
The Hokkaido, in contrast, hits a sweet spot: dense, nutty, and rich without being overpowering. Exactly the character we want in autumn layers.
A Brown Bechamel with a Secret
Our lasagna doesn’t settle for ordinary béchamel. Instead, we prepare a brown béchamel, deepened with slow-toasted flour and butter until golden, before blending it with roasted pumpkin purée. The result is a sauce that tastes almost caramelized—nutty, round, and warm.
But here’s the secret twist: pumpkin seed oil. Known as “Styrian gold” in Austria, this dark-green oil is pressed from roasted pumpkin seeds. Its flavor is astonishing—smoky, nutty, almost chocolatey, with a depth that instantly elevates whatever it touches. Just a drizzle can transform the béchamel into something unforgettable.
In culinary circles, pumpkin seed oil is considered liquid treasure. It’s not for frying (heat destroys its magic), but as a finishing touch it’s pure alchemy. Stirred into our pumpkin béchamel, it brings a roasted richness that feels both ancient and luxurious.
The Recipe: Pumpkin Lasagna with Autumn Crunch
Here’s how the layers come together at Lasagnariet this season:
Base: Sheets of our fresh lasagna dough (or gluten-free rice & corn dough for those who need it). Vegan guests can enjoy the same layers made with our special egg-free pasta.
Pumpkin Layer: Roasted Hokkaido pumpkin, blended into a creamy purée with garlic and onion slow-roasted until sweet and mellow.
Brown Pumpkin Bechamel: Rich, nutty, and perfumed with a ribbon of pumpkin seed oil.
Crunch Factor: Sprinkled throughout and on top—roasted pumpkin seeds and a house-made pumpkin seed praline, slightly caramelized for sweetness and crunch.
Cheese Crown: A generous topping of Västerbottensost, Sweden’s most noble cheese, sharp and salty, melting into golden perfection.
Optional Layer for the Bold: Chunks of slow-cooked pork belly, tender and unctuous, woven between the pumpkin for those who want indulgence layered into every bite.
When it comes out of the oven, the top crust is more than just melted cheese. It’s a mosaic of crispy praline, toasted seeds, and bubbling Västerbotten. The smell alone is enough to make you believe that autumn might be the best season of all.
Layers for Everyone
Lasagna is universal, but autumn makes it personal. For some, it’s the memory of chestnuts by a Tuscan piazza. For others, it’s the crunch of dry leaves in Humlegården. At Lasagnariet, it’s the joy of taking a classic and letting the season shape it.
That’s why this pumpkin lasagna comes in every version:
Vegetarian: A perfect balance of pumpkin, praline, and cheese.
Vegan: Made with our egg-free pasta, plant-based béchamel, and still kissed by pumpkin seed oil.
Gluten-free: With rice and corn dough that stays delicate yet firm.
Omnivore’s Dream: Pumpkin layers enriched with pork belly, smoky and tender.
Autumn in Stockholm, Autumn in a Bite
If summer was about lightness—picnics, berries, chilled drinks—autumn is about warmth and depth. It’s the season where food turns into comfort, where layers of flavor mirror the layers of clothing we pile on to face the chill.
And maybe that’s why lasagna belongs here. Because life really is made of layers. And when the wind is sharp and the skies are pale, there’s nothing better than sitting down with a piece of lasagna that tastes like autumn itself.
Pumpkin. Chestnuts. Layers of Autumn.
At Lasagnariet, that’s our ode to the season.
